Friday, June 08, 2007

DEWA SANZAN

On day two of our trip we got up early to the sound of the waves. After sausage, eggs, bread and coffee we drove east to climb a couple of mountains.
(Ryuta cooks up some breakfast)I'd heard of a trail leading from Yodono-san to the summit of Gassan (the highest and most famous mountain in the prefecture). Supposedly a demanding but extremely beautiful four hour hike to the top we were keen to check it out. We were told the day before at the tourist information that the trail would not open for another month due to the snow. However knowing the Japanese tendancy to be overly-cautious I thought we'd give it a go. Arriving at Yodono-san we were shocked at the depth of snow still lying. Two men working there told us 'muri' - impossible, and warned of landslides, falling through the snow and underlying rivers and waterfalls. But what really turned us off the climb was that there was no path to be seen anyway. Nothing. Only snow and soft slippery mud on the hills.
(The gates leading into Yodono-san)Not to be disheartened we asked around for any other options to get to the top. Again we only got 'muri' as a reply. Everyone seemed adamant that it was too early in the season to climb this beast, and would rather we waited until the summer when the mountain is full of people.
(Even with Ryuta's fluent Japanese we couldn't understand this strange kanji and carried on with our journey)But we knew there was a ski-resort on the other side of the mountain. It's open right up until July, such is the amount of snow fall in Yamagata but with no other options left, we drove an hour to the resort. Again we were reminded of the dangers when we arrived. But we did meet one youg guy. So we decided to give it a shot.
At the resort they insisted we buy a lift ticket and ride the lift before hiking further. I dont really know why since the path under the lift was very walkable. So as soon as we were out of view from the lift attendant, Ryuta jumped off and I followed. From the top of the lift we knew we were to go in the direction of eleven o'clock. At this height the clouds and mist were already around us so we hadn't many points of reference.
(From the top of the lift there was only snow and mist)We hiked for an hour and eventually came to the summit.
Unfortunately it was the wrong summit. The mist was really heavy, but we knew we were in the right direction. We just didn't know where Gassan's summit was or how to get there.
Looking around trying to get our bearings I spotted a solo skier in the snow below us. Ryuta slid down to him and asked if he knew how to get to the top. 'Two hours that way' said the skier, pointing into the mist.
('This is were we met the skier. He pointe to the middle of this photo.)So off we went, not wasting anytime.
The next two hours were slippery and confusing as there was no visable trail most of the way and we tried scaling the snowy hills to save time.
But after a grulling two hours of hiking through scrub, sliding through snow and hoping we were going in the right direction, we made it to the summit.
(Exhausted at the summit)It was well and truly worth it. In the moments that the mist dissapated and clouds blew aside the views were stunning. Panoramic views showed we were right in the heart of the mountains (and had a long way back). After hot cup noodles and rice balls we passed out for forty minutes. Awaking refreshed and energetic we really felt like kings after achieving our three summits in two days goal. We headed down the mountain sliding on our jackets to save time. But as the clouds once again settled all around us we got so lost all clue of direction and couldn't even find our own footprints. But that's another story for another time.
(The view from the top made it all worthwhile)

1 comment:

akatsuki said...

Good to see that you and Ryuta made your way out to Dewa. Next time, beach camping, eh. Maybe when it's a bit warmer.