Saturday, February 16, 2013

A COUCHSURFING EXPERIENCE IN DURBAN

I’m writing this post to let people know better about couchsurfing (CS) – an organisation for travellers that helps people make friends and find free accommodation. I started using CS in Korea where I hosted foreigners in my tiny apartment. Guys and girls I had never met from places like Canada, Russia, Slovenia, China and Mexico, slept on my sofa bed, their feet right next to my head. They also joined my friends and I for dinner or parties and when I’d free time I showed them around my neighbourhood.
Except for a couple of nights in Dubai on my way home to Ireland last year, I hadn't "surfed" (been the guest rather than the host) a lot before coming to Africa. But thus far on this trip I've been surfing lots and using the CS groups/forums to find people to hang out with and get useful, up to date info on the cities I visit and activities I want to do. I can’t tell you just how great it is. I flew to Africa not knowing a single person on the whole continent, but immediately landed to a room, a new friend, a social circle and insider info on the best places to go, eat and things to do. That was Joey, my host in Johannesburg. And because of him and his hospitality I staedy much, much longer in that city than originally planned.
On CS everyone has a profile page which shows photos, info, countries travelled, friends, and most importantly for safety, references. The references are brief comments categorised as positive, negative or neutral left by other couchsurfers. These comments are visable to all members and it’s possible to contact the member who left such comments for more information. So, for example, if someone stayed with me three nights in Seoul, he would leave a reference stating that I was (or was not) a good host. I would in turn, leave him a reference saying he was a good guest; polite, interesting, fun, etc.
As I’ve hosted quite a bit and have a lot of positive references, I think that makes other people more receptive to hosting me when I send “couch requests” or ask someone to hang out.
I recently took a three-night trip to the South African beach city of Durban and CS was massively helpful.
In preparation for this short trip, which I wanted to make the most of, I firstly joined the Durban group – a kind of forum where people can organise events, ask for info or find someone to travel with. After joining the group I put up a post stating the dates I would be in Durban, what my rough plans were and that I would love to hang out with other Couchsurfers there If possible.
Then I sent individual couch requests to Durban couchsufers who had their “couch status” set as “available”. These requests are supposed to be individualised and specific to the person you’re asking for a sofa as it’s not just a free hotel service, rather a network for passionate travellers to help one another. And by the way, it’s not always a couch you get. In my experience it is usually a bed, often a room but of course it can also just be a space on the floor.
A local man called Dave accepted my request. Dave turned out to be awesome; a former cop who now has his own business distributing remote control planes, cars and helicopters. He’s older than me, but is a fun-loving and kind man living his dream. Dave picked me up at the bus station in Durban then took me back to his place to shower after the long journey. I got my own room, a little unkempt with a remote control vehicle orgy taking up one side of the room, but clean and comfortable nonetheless.
After freshing up, Dave and I chatted and got to know each other. CS chat usually revolves around travel initially, as that’s the common ground we all share. Then we headed out to sushi restaurant to celebrate Dave’s birthday with his friends. So instantly I was brought into a group of local people who I could befriend and ask about their city and their lives. Dinner, booze and conversation and then home.
The next morning Dave had to work so I went into town to meet a couple of other couchsurfers who had replied to my post. Two local girls met me for brunch at their favourite promenade restaurant. One had been to Northern Ireland so we had a lot to chat about and enjoyed a nice sunny walk along the promenade where I learned about their jobs, studies and travels.
In the afternoon I did my own thing – a shark cage dive and some exploring and then went back to Dave’s to rest for a bit. That evening another couchsurfer, Laura, who had replied to my post invited me for some home-cooked food at her place with her boyfriend and friends. She even offered to pick me up from Dave’s. I went along with a bottle of wine and had a lovely dinner on their veranda with nice music and conversation. They drove me back at the end of the night and invited me to join them surfing some morning. Wonderful!
The next day, Dave had some free time so brought me to see Little India, the marina and to eat local food at his favourite Indian restaurant. We chilled in the afternoon over a few beers and talked about our upcoming trips; his to China and Thailand and mine to other African countries. Dave also took me to meet his sister and brother in-law, an Irish expat musician. We hung out in his swimming pool with cold beers and I got some useful advice (which I'll probably forget or ignore) about the dangers of the African countries I'll go to next. And later on, as a thank-you to Dave, I bought some groceries and cooked us dinner at home.
That night Laura, the girl who had me over for dinner, texted to say tomorrow's waves would be good and offered to pick me up at 05:45 for some early morning surf before my bus back to Joburg. Of course I said yes despite the early hour.
Next morning Laura picked me up and we hit the beach. Her boyfriend lent me his extra board and another friend who joined gave me a few pointers on handling the waves. We spent an hour and a half out in the warm water as the early morning sun rose. It was a specatacular experience and I felt very privileged to be doing something so awesome with local folk. I was also envious of these guys who regularly surf BEFORE going to work. What a wonderful way to start the day. Laura told me that on some very clear days dolphins come to surf the waves with them. Wow!
After surfing, we dried off, I said goodbye and thanked the guys, and Laura dropped me back at Dave’s in time for breakfast and coffee. She even gave me a couple of CDs – music which I had complimented during dinner at her place. How thoughtful. Dave then drove me to the bus station from where I was once again on my own.
So there you have it; a three-day, insider experience with fun people doing fun things for very little money. None of these people knew me, knew of me, or knew anyone I knew and still they went out of their way to ensure I had a great time in their city. This is couchsurfing.

Brunch with couchsurfers at the beach.


Dinner and surf host; the awesome Laura.


Surfs up!


Big Dave - the host with the most.

AFRICA UPDATE (06 FEB)

Well, I’ve been in Africa just over two months. I’ve been terrible at blogging, sorry. However over the next five weeks I will endeavour to write more and I expect to have the time and energy to do so.
Since the end of November, when I arrived, I’ve been using Johannesburg (Joburg) as a base. My initial plan of spending just two nights in the infamous and dangerous city quicky changed as my couchsurfing host brought me into his social circles and invited me to cool events like pool parties as well as taking me to the city’s best restaurants and clubs. So I stayed on much longer than expected. Using Joburg as my base, I’ve taken trips to three other countries; Swailand, Lesotho and Mozambique. I plan to write about these countries in depth (well, at least as much depth as I could see in my short time visiting. I’ve also visited Kruger National Park, Durban, the Panorama Route (a scenic road north of Joburg), and a bizarre Hindu festival.
I’ve done a lot of partying since arriving on this continent, perhaps too much and perhaps at the cost of other activitivities like scuba diving, bungee jumping, etc. But I’ve loved everywhere I have been and met so many amazing people along the way. Everyday I learn something new, which is shocking because I thought I already knew everything.
Right now, I’m typing this on an Intercape bus from Joburg to Gaborone, the capital of Botswana. From tomorrow I will volunteer at a nature reserve called Mokolodi. They have an expensive, but seemingly well organised and comprehensive volunteer programme that lasts five weeks. This is ideal for me right now as it’s time for my annual 6-week detox (previously known as "Lent"). The nature reserve is 17km from the city and I’m currently the only volunteer, so evenings will be quiet, perhaps even lonely, but that’s ok; it will give me opportunity to write about the things I’ve seen and done as well as some reading time. I hope to use this time very productively following so much hedonism. I plan to run (bye bye beer belly), eat healthy (I have to cook my own meals), read a lot (finally put that Kindle to use), and perhaps consider my future plans and what I will do after Africa (???).
Thanks for your patience and stay tuned for lots of posts and photos.