Sunday, December 23, 2012

BIG BAD BUS


Walking around Johannesburg today I saw this mean-looking vehicle parked at a bus stop. Walking past I was very curious as to what it was. Then I saw a lady go to the counter, pay for something, then get off. I wanted to ask what the vehicle was, but felt intimated because it looked so menacing. After deliberating for a few moments, I doubled back and climbed aboard.
Through the metal bars and thick Perspex screen I asked the driver what the bus was for. He mumbled something incomprehensible. I asked him to repeat it and he mumbled, again incomprehensively, but this time in a very unfriendly tone. A black man in a dirty chef's uniform climbed aboard and asked me "Howzit?" (the local greeting). He seemed infinitely more approachable so I asked him about the bus’ purpose.
I learned that this vehicle is for people to top up their bus cards, which they use on the orange, public buses here. My new friend, the chef, wasn't sure why they used this system, but suggested it was for the safety of the bus drivers. My guess is that because these orange buses go into some very poor and dangerous areas (the townships) it's best to not have cash aboard. All the cash must be kept in these armored vehicles which are less likely to be held up. Though the chef told me these armoured buses get robbed frequently and that would explain the driver’s gruffness.
The chef and I spoke for a while. He works in the apartment complex adjacent to the bus stop. I told him that my brother is a chef, though probably not as good as him. The chef asked me if I knew Soweto. I said I did. It's the township that I visited at the start of my trip. Chef is from Soweto. He asked me about my country and the type of housing there. He didn't know where Ireland was, but I drew a map on the bus' greasy wall. He asked if everyone was rich and I told him no, but he didn’t seem to believe me.

AFRICA SO FAR

I arrived in Johannesburg almost four weeks ago. I had planned to stay only two nights, and yet, here I still am, loving it.
The couchsurfer I stayed with, Joey, was an amazing, fun and generous host. He brought me into his huge social circle and I immediately met lots of other cool people and new friends through him. And because of that, I'm still here.
My time here so far has mostly been like a holiday so far. The weather is mostly hot and dry and the apartments where I stay have a pool, so it feels like a holiday resort to me. I took a trip to Swaziland alone which was very interesting. I also traveled long the Panorama Route and to Kruger Park with a Korean friend. I'll blog about these trips later.
My time here in Jo'burg has mostly been spent partying - bars, clubs, pool parties, birthday parties, waterparks, and other awesome stuff like that. I have also visited a township and some markets, but mostly I’ve just been eating great food and socialising with locals and expats. So far so good.
Jo’burg itself is a fascinating city with a clear and large gap between the rich and poor. I’ve sampled the animosity people often speak of here and I’ve seen snipets of the poverty. I’m also experiencing the finer elements of life here – maids that visit daily, rooftop bars, cruising in fancy cars and other things that I’m highly UNaccustomed to. But I’ll write more about this notorious city later since I’m seeing and experiencing new and unusual things every day.

Big Madiba at Nelson Mandela Square.