Thursday, August 30, 2012

EURO-JOURNAL NIGHT 27 (PUNK FESTIVAL - TOLMIN)

After the nine-hour hike I somehow ended up joining Borut at a punk festival.





EURO-JOURNAL DAY 27 (KRN)

Nine-hour hike with Borut. Awesome!
















EURO-JOURNAL DAY 26 (LJUBLJANA - BOVEC)

I caught a bus up to Bovec today, Bovec is a small town in the mountains near the Soča River - a popluar place for rafting, kayaking, and other outdoor activities. I caught a bus there because Jana's brother, Borut, had invited me to do a big hike with him at a mountain called KRN.
On the bus I met an English girl, a teacher, called Krista and we became friends over the bus ride. On arriving in Bovec we searched for campsites together. We found a lovely one by the river but it was too far from town for me as I have an early rise tomorrow. So Krista stayed there. I hung out for a while as the river was lovely and I needed a break from carrying my stuff.
In the evening we walked the thirty minutes back to town and I got set up at the campsite there. Then we had some dinner and got a little drunk. Probably not the best idea considering I have an early rise and long hike tomorrow, but it was fun.

The river.

Krista and me.

Pretty Bovec.

EURO-JOURNAL DAY 25 (LJUBLJANA)

Pretty chilled day today. Got up early with Jana and had a healthy breakfast - muesli with nuts, seeds, dried fruit and yoghurt. I'm really trying to stay healthy and not lose weight on this trip. So far it seems to be working out relatively well. I visited Jana's favourite cafe, Bi Ko Fe, which has also become my favourite. Did some writing there and caught up on Facebook. I had planned to visit the castle up on the hill, but it started pouring around late morning and continued in the afternoon. I was perfectly content however to just stay in the cafe. Actually one of the things I had planned and hoped for most on this trip was spending lots of time in cafes, reading, writing, thinking and watching the people go by. However, I often feel guilty when I do because part of me feels I need to be out seeing things and "making the most" of these wonderful new places. So today's rain washed away the guilt and let me enjoy doing nothing.

EURO-JOURNAL DAY 24 (JULIAN ALPS)

We caught a 6am bus to Vrsic and started hiking about 9. Jana had planned a route and had been to this mountain range, the Julian Alps, many times. We hiked most of the day and caught a bus back just after 7. Another perfect day in Slovenia. Great weather, friendly hikers, amazing views.









EURO-JOURNAL DAY 23 (LJUBLJANA)

Today was awesome! I felt much better physically and mentally despite last night's boozing. Got up early and Jana gave me more detailed directions to the mountain before she went to work. I geared up, ate a healthy vegatarian breakfast and caught the bus out to the mountain. It was a short, but steep hike up the the church at the summit. Perfect weather - sunny and dry. Over breakfast I had googled "how to be a better person" and read a few articles about this. So I had plenty to keep my mind busy on the hike up through the forest. I really want to be a better person and one of the suggestions I found is to list the people you admire and respect. Then find the qualities int those people that you want to have and then and start adding them into your life/self one by one. Sounds pretty simple, right? I'm sure it's not, but I'll try.
The views from the top of the mountain were nice, but not spectacular as it was only 600 metres. Ljubljana doesn't have many sky scrapers. It's not just because of the low population, about 2 million, but also because the ground here is very wet. Ive been told that if you dig down just a few meters you can find water. So there are limitations on the size/weight of buildings that can be constructed here.
There was a small basic restaurant on the summit where I bought some soup and sat outside to eat it and think more about becoming a better person. The lady that served the soup gave me a discount which was nice since I didn't even ask - I just showed surprise at the 5 euro price on the vegetarian soup. She said it's because they use some special organic vegetable from nearby mountains. Anyway, she only charged me 3.50 - the same price as the non-vegetarian soups and stews that I was hungrily considering. Oh, I failed to mention that I'm going veggy for a few days while spending time with Jana. Why not?
I then lay in the sun for a while as there are lots of sun-loungers up there for anyone to use. There were many people coming and going - dog-walkers, hikers, runners, people hiking with babies, and women walking together. I felt really happy and comfortable up there and it's definitely somewhere I would hike to regularly for lunch and a nice view if I lived nearby.
I caught the bus home, did some picnic shopping with Jana for tomorrow's hike. Then we visited her brother and his wife and their new baby. They are a real cool couple. He seems big into his hiking, rock-climbing and alternative music festivals. His wife also seems really cool and sociable. They were very welcoming and introduced me to western and eastern Slovenian wines. Did you know Slovenia made wine? I didn't.
Jana's brother, Borut, was a fountain of information about his country and all things hiking related so it was great to pick his brain. The more Europeans I meet on this trip, the more I envy their lifestyle. These people really seem to know how to enjoy life. From coffee and wine to festivals and travel, none of them seem to be caught up in the rat race like in other places. Wow, Europe.

View from top.

EURO-JOURNAL DAY 22 (LJUBLJANA)

Felt crappy today - sore throat and cold sore on my lip, and no energy. Bummed around Jana's in the morning and tried to go hiking in the afternoon, but the buses were too confusing so I went to a cafe instead.
Jana cooked a vegetarian curry (she's vegetarian) for dinner and I felt much better after a nap and some good food. We just chilled tonight sharing our favourite youtube music videos and talking over lots of different beers. Jana showed me lot's of cool Icelandic videos. it looks like an amazing country.

Graffiti everywhere in Ljubljana. But "nice" graffiti.

The best cure for feeling crappy - various beers.

EURO-JOURNAL DAY 21 (INNSBRUCK - LJUBLJANA)

Caught a train from Innsbruck to Slovenia. I used my East Europe Rail Pass. It cost 150 euros, allows unlimited travel on any 5 days within a month in the countries of Austria, Slovakia, Hungary, Poland and Czech. Seems like a good deal, but it was hard to find since it's not so popular. Even the guy in the Innsbruck train station didn't know what it was. But he was very helpful and finally made me one. It doesn't include Slovenia, but I got all the way there anyway without paying extra - just what I was hoping for.
I expected to have lots of time on the six hour journey for reading, writing and thinking. But I got sitting with a Dutch girl and an American girl. They were both nice and the young American girl was an absolute fountain of information about everything European, and perhaps everything in general. She sat in her seat cross-legged, looking very at ease and helped the Dutch girl and I get seats because we were confused about the reservation system. Then she talked and talked and we listened and listened. An absolutely fascinating person who seems so worldly and wise. The Dutch girl and I were both shocked to later find out she was only 16 years old!
When I arrived in Slovenia, Jana met me at the station. Jana is a couchsurfer who stayed with me in Seoul. She is also the reason I came to this country. I knew nothing about Slovenia previously which shocked Jana and motivated her to motivate me to visit. She's an avid hiker and promised beautiful mountains and long hikes. So here I am.
We spent tonight walking around the capital city, Ljubljana, which is lovely, small, artistic. We had a vegetarian dinner and then hung out with some of Jana's friends. Already I love this place. And there is graffiti everywhere, but nice graffiti.

Ljubljana by night.

Friday, August 24, 2012

EURO-JOURNAL DAY 20 (INNSBRUCK)

Woke up this morning feeling fantastic. Totally the opposite of yesterday when I was exhausted and feeling like going home. Amazing what a good night's sleep can do. And I'm sure being back at DD's where I feel totally comfortable was part of it. Had a healthy porridge breakfast with vitamins and ginseng and caught the bus into Innsbruck for some cafe culture and writing.
Had a pretty chilled day in Innsbruck. Enjoyed the vibe, the buskers and mimes and the music in the square. Feeling so positive. I wish I could be up like this all the time. And I've been thinking that I need to think more about what to do with my future. Hopefully not teaching and hopefully something that gives me enough time off to travel. But lately I've been putting a horrible amount of pressure on myself to choose the "perfect career". And I've been doing so without even gathering information about what's available to me. Same old story - older, but not wiser.

On a side-note, Austrians are awesome. They are so kind, friendly and generous. Today a young guy running a sandwich shop wanted to give me my second sandwich for free. Just because we chatted for five minutes. I refused because it's his new business, but I felt very flattered and happy.

Mimes in Innsbruck.

EURO-JOURNAL DAY 19 (BACK TO AUSTRIA)

A crappy day. My first time on this trip when I questioned traveling and thought about going home. I only slept a few hours and had a very early rise as Sungshin was going to the airport for a holiday in Spain. I caught a ride to Ausberg station, dozed on the way to Munich and then another couple of hours by train back to Innsbruck. I slept some, but mostly listened to music and felt like I didn't know what the hell I was doing with my life.
Getting back into Innsbruck felt great. Out of the countryside and back to somewhere that I knew and somewhere that I knew people. After lunch I caught a bus to Hall and back to DD's. He was chilling in the sunny garden with a beer and his wife. Great to see them and I felt the feeling was mutual, so that really picked me up. DD and I caught up over beers in the garden then helped his dad take grass and hedge cuttings to the dump.
More beers in the evening and DD make some typical Austrian dishes for dinner. Was in bed before 11.

EURO-JOURNAL DAY 18 (GABELBACH)

Ok, so this village is called Gabelbach. I think.

I got up at around 9. I feel pretty lazy living with these Germans. Everyone seems to be up by 5 and in bed by 10pm. It's my third day here and I still haven't met the man of the house. I felt like some time alone and had a few things to do so borrowed the bicycle and cycled to a bigger village after breakfast. Visited a pharmacy about my eye which seems to be suffering from an allergy or something. The young pharmacist was very friendly and he spoke good English, but didn't have any suitable medicine. I then did some shopping and went to a cafe for some lunch and to write a letter.

In the evening I finally met Bernt, the father/husband. I knew he was a doctor and guessed he was a big wig since he's just returned from the White House, Pentagon and other important places. He was very nice, humble and great to talk to.

We had a great dinner and great conversation in the evening sitting in the garden with lots of delicious foods. There was even desert. And I had bought the a bottle of Baileys so taught Katrin how to make Baileys coffee, which we all enjoyed. We sat up for hours as the stars got brighter above the corn field in their back garden. It was fascinating conversation and I felt very lucky to have this chance to spend time with a Bavarian family.

Checking out the nearby village of Zusmarshausen.

EURO-JOURNAL DAY 17 (A VILLAGE IN BAVARIA)

Well, it's all a bit bizarre really. I'm in a village in Bavaria. I don't know what it's called and I've no idea how to get back to where I came from. It's a very pretty place though, but also very remote.

This morning I helped Sungshin look after the kids while Katrin, the mother worked at home. She's an architect and is currently managing a huge project to convert a local school into one which completely runs on renewable energy. It sounds like a huge task, but she also seems to be an extremely competent woman. The kids, Finlay (18 months) and Leoni (4 months) and both blue-eyed and blond. Finlay takes a lot of energy, but Leoni seems easy to take care of. We walked around the village first. There's a kindergarten in the village and a church and a school. But the only business I saw seemed to be a tractor repair shop. Though the one customer that pulled up when we were passing, opened his boot to reveal a crate of beer. So perhaps this is the kind of business where money doesn't even change hands. We then walked for a couple of hours though the country roads past corn and barley fields, nice forests and a farmer or two, before stopping to rest in the shade. It's really a pretty place here. Friendly, peaceful, natural. A wonderful environment for kids to grow up in I imagine.

Katrin made lunch in the afternoon and we ate in the garden and played with the kids. And in early evening Sungshin and I headed to "the lake". I've started to notice that Sungshin seems to underestimate, or under-explain, just how much effort is needed to reach a destination which she has suggested (eg. her home, or "the lake"). Man, it took ages. We cycled all the way back to the train station. Had just enough time to buy a quick picnic from the supermarket. Then loaded the bikes onto the train which was already overloaded with bikes. We traveled about 30 minutes to a town called Ausburg and then had another 40 minute cycle to the lake. Sunghin's bike is too big for her and after several almost-falls, she finally broke her sandals. As there were no shops in sight, I gave her my sneakers and cycled in socks. But it was quite far by bike. When we finally got to the lake, it was pretty, but not exceptional. The sun wasn't far off setting so we had a quick swim and then our picnic with a bottle of peach liquor that Sungshin had brought. That was quite nice and relaxing and there were no annoying insects.

The cycle back to Ausburg station wasn't too bad, despite being tired and shoeless, and we only got lost once. At the station Sungshin informed me that there is only one train per hour, always at 53 minutes past. This would have been good information to know beforehand as it was 9:20pm. So we bought some beers and snacks and hung out at the station before boarding yet another over-biked train. The cycle back to the village was long and tiring, but not as long and tiring as the night before when we walked it. And the beautiful sky above, abundant with stars, made a nice distraction.

Walking with Finlay.

Walking Leoni.

Peaceful countryside.

Picnic at the lake.

EURO-JOURNAL DAY 16 (HALL - A VILLAGE IN BAVARIA)

Up early to give DD a hand taking down the Monster tent and fridges as the event ends today. DD locked the key in the car up at the resort, so while waiting for the insurance company to send someone, I had a look around town. I found some hiking boots on sale for 99 euros. I grabbed them since I'd tried on the newer model of the same boots back home and they were 170 pounds. Glad to get some boots as hiking in Switzerland with just trailrunners was no good. I hurt my ankle in January and it didn't heal properly so the last thing I need is to twist it and have no ankle support. And I'll be doing more hiking in Slovenia.
DD had to work more in teh afternoon so I borrowed his fancy bike and headed into the mountains. Well, I say headed into the moutnains, but I really didnt go too far. These Austrian mountains are crazt steep. I almost had a heart attack, so just found a pub after a couple of hours.
Later, I said goodbye to DD and Froni, wonderful hosts that they were, and caught my train to Germany. I grabbed some dinner and beers from the supermarket at the train station in Innsbruck. The supermarket was well stocked and reasonaly priced. I got a decent Schnizel sandwich and great salad for only 4 euros and the beers were cheap too.
I drank alone on the train as most of the passengers seemed to be a youth group traveling together. I had my laptop so watched a TV show called The IT Crowd that Froni gave me. It's a British show, but I'd never heard of it. It's really hilarious and had me laughing aloud much to the amusement of the others in the train car.
I got into Munich a little late, but Sungshin was waiting for me. We had to take two connecting trains to get to her village, but had an hour to kill so walked around Munich and finished off the beers I had. We then caught the trains and then had a one hour walk. Wow, really a village. We had to walk along little roads lined with corn and barley fields in the starlight. It was quite nice, but tiring. It was elevenish when we arrived at the home where she works as an au pair. The family were already sleeping so we just went to bed too.

EURO-JOURNAL DAY 15 (HALL)

It's 18:30 right now. I'm just having my first beer of the day. Pretty late, but that's because DD and I were both in terrible shape today. We are most definitely not 23 anymore. I'm now back at the bar from last night. Rob, the Romanian, came over for a chat. He had a great night too, he said. I ordered a cheeseburger and salad. I can allow myself the burger since I haven't eaten much today and was vomiting this morning.
I feel effin fantastic though. This trip is great. It's so awesome to see old friends. I also skyped with Sungshin, the Korean girl in Germany. I've decided to go to the village near Munich where she's staying tomorrow evening. I had no plans and no desire to visit Germany on this trip, but I'll go anyway. It seems like a fun and exciting adventure. Can't wait! She seems really fun, energetic, smiley and has a lovely laugh. That's enough to go to another country for, right?

On the way to the mountain. Very pretty everywhere.

But the beer is even prettier.

EURO-JOURNAL DAY 14 (HALL)

Didn't sleep too well last night. Sofabed was comfortbale, but my neck was giving me terrible pain. Maybe from the rucksack yesterday? DD and I drove up to the mountains to deliver some Monster Engergy drink. That's one of DD's jobs - distributing and promoting Monster and organising their events. Seems like an awesome job. His other job is importing high-level snowboards from the USA. Also seems pretty awesome.
There was a Specialised Bike promotion up at a mountain resort where they are promoting next seasons bikes. DD had a Monster tent up there and fridges to give out drinks to staff and participants. He seems to know a lot of people and is able to get cool perks, like Specialized bikes at big discounts.
In the afternoon DD hosted a barbecue in the garden. His folks and grandparents and brother and godmother all came. Great food and great people. It's so strange to see someone's life like this. DD is someone I knew nine years ago as a wild backpacker. He was always looking to start a party, meet new people, be crazy and have fun. So it's amazing to see him all grown up with a wife and baby on the way, and all the people he grew up with around him. I feel lucky and privileged to see it and meet these people. Especially DD's step dad, Gigi. He's super cool. Very polite and soft-spoken, but a policeman who's got the best hobbies including mountain biking and off-roading in Africa. He has a Landcruiser that he works on at home and then once or twice a year, he and DD's mom drive to northern Africa for dune-driving and camping in the desert. It sounds and looks spectacular in the photos he showed me. I feel really inspired by these cool people leading cool lives and still being adventurous even after having kids and buying houses. etc.
I got pretty baked sitting in the sunny garden talking to DD's big brother and step dad, but the beers kept me cool. And this evening, DD's mom, who lives just above them invited us up to try some homemade schnapps. Schnapps seems to be the big thing in Austria. Not surprising since there are apples growing everywhere here. It is made of apples, right? Anyway, we sample three types of schnapps and also a bottle of grappa. Strong stuff and some of them are well over 40%. It was nice to try them, but perhaps not something I would rush to drink again unless it had some kind of mixer. They were only wee glasses that we drunk. But when DD and I walked into town for a quiet pint, things very quickly became a party.
It's hard to piece the events of the night together. But it was a Sunday and initially it looked dead quiet at the only bar which seemed to be open. But after a couple of pints and befriending the Romanian bartender who looked just like Vin Diesel, we got the party started. Bucketloads of drink seemed to get drunk as well as tequila shots from some "pretty boy" as DD called him. I've forgotten parts of the night, but it was just what I needed - a good blowout, since I hadn't really partied thus far. Good times!

DD working hard.

"DD! Working hard?"

One of the practice tracks.

Next season's bikes.

Homemade schnapps and grappa. Just say no!

EURO-JOURNAL DAY 13 (HALL)

Up at 8 today. Feeling pretty rough from last night's beers and whatever else went in to my belly. Didn't sleep too well last night so went downstairs to the cafe, which is part of the hostel, for breakfast. Just managed a coffee though. I drove to DD's and then Carol and I parted ways. She's off to Iceland for a horseriding holiday before returning to Madrid for work. I'll miss her. She was a great host in Switzerland and a good travel partner.
Had pre-lunch beers and that helped me feel better. Then DD took me on a 4hr hike into the mountains overlooking Innsbruck. That didn't make me feel better. We didn't reach our goal on the hike. I think we were both in a bit of a mess and stopped at every chance to stick our faces in the cold mountain stream.
However, we did make to a cool mountain hut. There we stopped for sandwiches and beer. DD had made sandwiches and the hut was stocked with beers, but unmanned. There was a sign saying to leave money on the table for any beers drank. 2 euros per large bottle. I love the trust in this country. It was the same in Innsbruck with the newspapers. Just leave money and take one.
"I've only ten euros" said DD, "we have to drink five beers". "Ok", I said.
But thankfully, the hut owners came before we got drunk because one of us would've definitely rolled down that steep mountain if we'd drank any more. Actually, I'm not sure if they were the owners or just workers of that hut. But they were perhaps the coolest couple I have ever seen. An ancient man and an ancient woman, both with deep lines carved in their well-sunned faces. They looked like they could maybe be just a little crazy and were dressed in bizarre, colourful, but faded clothes from another time. The man, carried new crates of beer from his van to the hut and turned down DD's offer of help despite them looking so heavy. And the woman took to preparing some food inside the hut.
DD and the old man had a conversation. I don't know what they talked about, but it was obvious, and strange, that DD gave this man a lot of respect and even seemed a little in awe. DD said they are typical mountain people. Their life isn't easy, but they are very happy. I really wished I could speak some German and talk to the old man.
Later, at home, Froni cooked a vegetable and fish stirfry and we sat at home with beers discussing child-raising strategies. DD has invited me to stay as long as I want. That's pretty awesome of him and of Froni. I would've thought most pregnant wives wouldn't want their husbands old party-friends crashing with them. So I'll stay a few days.

Beer at the hut. No photos of me or DD. We looked terrible.

Austrian weather changes in a second on the mountain. A storm started just after we reached home.
Lovely dinner with a lovely couple - DD and Froni.