TEMPLE STAY

I went on a temple stay last month. I'd been meaning to do one here for a while, but wanted to wait for warm weather as sleeping on a wooden floor in the cold didn't appeal to my sensitive nature.
I'd been on two temple stays before, one in Thailand with my elementary school students, and one in Japan with my parents. So this was my first solo retreat.
I had originally planned to go the a foreigner meditation centre, but through some unusual circumstances (and very poor planning) I ended up in an ancient temple famous for it's fighting monks (historically, not now).
It was just me and a Korean family of four there. There was no English program, but with the family's help plus my twenty words of Korean, I was able to get by.
I arrived late in the afternoon to the surprise and amusement of the monks who were not expecting me (because I wasn't even expecting to be there - long story...) But they quickly regained composure and donned me in temple attire then introduced me to the family.In the evening we got a tour of the temple grounds and learned about the interesting history (I guess), then rang the big temple bell while focusing on our wish (whatever we were hoping to achieve through the temple stay). Then we had to do some tedious tracing of Korean script and a picture of Buddha. Actually it wasn't as boring as it sounds, and probably serves some purpose, but it was a bit achey on the wrists.That evening we all had a temple dinner together consisting of very simple, but delicious and wholesome vegetables, rice and soup. The family were really warm and welcoming to me and I was glad they were there too.
After dinner we did some worship and meditation. I had always meditated with my eyes closed before, but this monk taught us to keep your eyes half open and focus on space one meter ahead, so as to not get sleepy. I tried, but actually found it really distracting and it hurt my eyes a little. So I certainly didn't reach an enlightened state.That night we were sent to bed at nine o'clock, just like the monks, in preparation for a four o'clock wake up call. But I usually finish teaching at nine, so there's no way I can go to sleep that early. I walked around the temple taking photos, but not for long. It was pretty dark and I was afraid I might be disturbing the sleeping monks if I wandered around too much.I tried going to sleep, but it was pointless. The floor was too hard. There weren't enough blankets for padding. It was too hot to get under my blanket, but I had to because of the mosquitoes. I tossed and turned most of the night and when I finally got sleepy I was so anxious about sleeping in for the morning worship, I couldn't sleep well anyway.I probably slept about an hour and then dragged myself out into the dark pre-dawn wondering what the hell I was doing there anyway. The family were still snoring in the room next to me so I went alone to one of the small halls where the monks where chanting in the candlelight. It was nice and kind of surreal. I preformed my 108 bows, which is actually kind of painful when your not used to it. You have to go from standing position right down onto your knees then prostrate yourself head to the floor.
Then, when the family finally got up, over an hour later, I did it all again with them. Exhausting! But it's meant to be good for you diet. Whatever the hell that means.
Next was the mandatory and tedious brushing of the yard with big dopey branches. I know that it's all part of the humbling procedure or whatever, but after nearly 250 bows I was knackered and really couldn't be bothered. And to make matters worse, after devising a super-efficient system of brushing whereby I started at one end, brushed a straight line towards the wall, and then at the end went the opposite way brushing along the same line, thus ensuring all the leaves and rocks where reaching the wall and no areas were being missed.
But just as I was making good progress, the youngest of the Korean sons came over and started brushing randomly on top of my hard work and on parts I hadn't touched yet. What a mess. I wanted to punch him in the head, but I knew that would be bad for my karma. I think I must've been tired.
Next was time for breakfast. We all fetched and served the food together and it was a long, slow and ceremonious procedure. Actually it was really nice to take so long over a meal, and it tasted so much better and fulfilling because of it. Thankfully after breakfast it rained and I got time for a twenty minute lie down. That made the hour hike in the mountain behind the temple much more enjoyable. And then for the most enjoyable part of the trip. The Korean family, monk and myself went down to a little cabin-style tea house built by a stream for some late morning green tea. It was so peaceful. The tea house was also a gift shop, but the early time and morning drizzle meant there were no tourists hanging about. There was wonderful traditional Korean music playing. Very meditative. And the green tea was served bitter, in tiny, delicate cups. As the monk and the family quietly talked, I sleepily drifted of in my own thoughts and felt, for the first time in a long time, at total peace with the world. And those few minutes feeling like that, made the whole, exhausting, painful experience worth while.
Then it was time to leave. The family kindly drove me all the way to Inchon where they treated me to lunch in a Chinese restaurant. And after our goodbyes I caught a bus home, exhausted and probably no closer to enlightenment, but with another new experience and interesting memory.