Of the three countries I visited over Christmas, it was only in Cambodia in which I travelled alone. It was important for me to go solo for at least part of my trip, and it was essential that I travelled around the temples alone. 
I don't know why. Maybe just the selfishness of not wanting any compromise or to wait on anyone. Maybe I wanted thinking time. Or maybe I just have no friends. Either way, I am very glad I did it this way.
On arriving in Siem Riep I found the cheapest guesthouse I could. Two dollars a night and I think I could of haggled them down even more. This was no luxury accomodation. A shared cold water bathroom and electricity only one night out of the three I stayed. But with dozens of ancient temples and ruins only a short drive away I didn't plan on spending too much time inside.
I spent two days visiting about ten of these 13th Century temples. There are dozens scattered for miles and miles around the main area of Angkor. I hired myself a tuktuk and driver for two days. 
Mr Ging turned out to be the best driver in all of Siem Riep (in my opinion). He'd pick me up in the morning, drive me out the the main temple area and recommend what was good to see. He knew all the famous temples, plus the ones that were good to watch sunset from, plus a whole lot more. I'd return from one of the grand temples, which have a lot of tourists, and say 'Mr Ging, too many people. You know somewhere quiet?' Ging would smile and climb onto the tuktuk's motorbike. Twenty minutes later I'd find myself walking in the jungle, some old ruins scattered here and there, not another person in sight. Ging would go to a food stall or sleep in the tuktuk or chat with one of his many girlfriends by text message.
Obviously the Angkor Wat area is impressive by all accounts and quite hard to grasp at times. But for me the most enjoyable moments where being away from the main temples. 
Strolling along an overgrown path, not a worry in the world and all the time I wanted. Discovering little rivers or small ruins seemingly sitting on their own. At one point I was sitting in the shade of a tree a couple of kilometres into the forest. Just enjoying some alone time and pondering the meaning of life. Actually, I think I was pondering what to have for lunch, but whatever. Then I heard a trotting noise. Along came an ox pulling a small wooden cart with a young Cambodian farmer on top. He must have passed within seven or eight feet of me, but didn't see me. I was so amazed I didn't think to take out my camera. I was taken aback because I was well off the path by now and had no idea where this guy had come from or where he was going. In fact shortly after he passed through and the forest returned to silence I questioned had anyone actually passed through or was it the effects of the mid-day sun*.
Little moments like this plus the stark contrast of these ancient dark ruins and temples silouetting a bright blue sky made the whole experience very unique.I could easily have spent five days there and would love to go back again someday.
Note*: 'mid-day sun' is not an illegal substance.
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